This is a great article on TMM vs NMM that is well worth reading! Check it out:
This is a great article on TMM vs NMM that is well worth reading! Check it out:
Hi! Just wanted to share the process of one of my Rat Ogres. Just looooved to paint it and it really made me want to paint more skaven. Hopefully turning up a Mordheim warband in the end… but we’ll see.
So, no tutorial, just showing the steps. Almost all colors are from the Citadel range with a couple of exceptions.
Three different washes and glaces down…
And some highlighting…
First I didn’t exactly know where to go in terms of Skaven clan. I have had Rictus in mind for a long time, but when the flesh was painted I felt it needed some green details and thus I decided to keep on with a Pestilens clan of some kind…
So now, only the base left! Hopefully an update on this within a week or so!
Hi, as a first post I thought I’d post an old article that was made for K7 but the issue was never published. As our old pal Pawel is running a kickstarter now for Norsgard (you should all go and check it out) it is once again up to date.
I start priming this miniature with directional lighting in mind, which have started to be an increasingly popular method. Usually it is done with black and white spray primer but I choose to do it in three steps, adding gray. So first I spray the miniature black, being careful to not add any paint in any upper angles (to save the details). Then I go on with gray spray, adding it from 90° to 45° and lastly I add just white spray straight from the top of the miniature. This gives a slightly smoother transaction so you can work with more trancelucent paints.
This is a quick way to get the light and shadows in order. But if you have the time and an airbrush, I recommend the method displayed in Issue no.1 with my Kelt Hunter.
Usually I have a color scheme in mind, I’m really for planning a miniature ahead, but sometimes you just don’t get the vision from the start. So Instead of starting with the skin which I commonly do I want to start with the largest color fields to get the general impression set first. I know I want to get a kind of forest look to the miniature, going quite opposite of the studio job. I apply three very thin layers of GW Castellan Green. To get a great foundation with that earthy mossy feel.
Next I add a few very thin glaces of GW Stegadon Scale Green. This is almost a dark turquoise color rather than green. I’d say I paint around 6 thin layers. The first two I add to the entire lower cloak, not just the recesses. By making the lower width of the cloak cooler your eyes travel upward towards the head. Read more about this theory in my article on how to make a miniature readable elsewhere in this issue. The other layers I add where there would be shadow. Lastly I add just a tiny bit of Rackham Chitin green and Rackham Accursed black to the darkest spots.
Next I add highlights by going back to GW Castellan Green and adding GW Gretchin Green and Rackham Noesis White to the mix in three successive steps, adding many thin layers. Each time smoothing out the edges with a damp clean brush.
Then I start with the wings. Painting the feathers with a single thin layer of GW Dheneb Stone and giving them a wash with GW Daemonette Hide.
Next I paint the outside and ridge of the wings with GW Khemri Brown and wash it with GW Devlan Mud, letting some go down on the white feathers to dirty them up a bit.
I add a slight highlight to the feathers using pure Rackham Noesis White and then I paint the pattern with GW Charadon Granite. I also add a few thin glaces of GW Charadon Granite towards the back of the Oracle to make the wings darker and feel more attached to the mini.
With the wings and cloak done, I can start focus on the skin. I now know what warmth I need to have to balance everything. I start by applying a mix of GW Kislev Flesh and GW Dheneb Stone. When dry I give the skin a quick wash of GW Ogryn Flesh.
I tone down the redness by shading the skin with a mix of Rackham Chitin Green and Rackham Accursed Black.
I highlight the skin with a mix of GW Kislev Flesh, a tiny amount of Rackham Wildcat Gray (to make it a little duller) and Rackham Noesis White. In the face I also add a thin glace of GW Baal Red to the cheeks and lips. Paint the eyes and add a little dot of white on her lower lip to give it a slight shine. The remaining textile parts get a base coat of Charadon Granite and a GW Devlan Mud Wash.
Next it is time to deal with the metal. I give it a base coat of Rackham Gray of Darkness, a quick wash of GW Badab Black and when dry I give some extra punch of black where needed with Rackham Accursed Black to define the volumes and raise details. On the weapon I make some good clean gradients to pure black on the edge of the blade etc.
What I like with Badab Black is that it isn’t pure black but slightly brownish. This plays really well with the cooler gray added over it later on.
Next I do the highlights by first just adding Rackham Gray of Darkness again and then by adding more and more Rackham Sharp Gray. It is a bright kind of plain gray but with just a slight coolness to it. From this I add GW Skull White up to pure white.
To make the metal come alive even more I decide to add some rust in the recesses. First I apply Rackham Dirty Leather for the old rust, just a couple of glaces and then really thinned down I use Rackham Natural Leather for the fresh more vibrant rust. At this stage I also add the mid tone for the smoke/air. I use GW Slaanesh Grey.
The smoke then get a wash of GW Daemonette Hide/Rackham Divine Purple. When dry, I add some pure Divine Purple where needed.
Here I admittedly lost track of doing WIP-shots. The smoke/air was highlighted with GW Slaanesh Grey/Noesis White. Gloves etc. got a slight highlight by mixing GW Charadon Granite and Rackham Wildcat gray.
Lastly I painted the brass cauldron. As a base coat GW Charadon Granite was used. After this I gave it a wash of GW Stegadon Scale Green and when dry a wash of GW Badab Black. From here I highlight very thinly with GW Khemri Brown and then with some Rackham Noesis White added to it. As a final step I add some verdigris by applying some GW Sybarite Green.
Notice that the medallion still isn’t painted. I decided to leave that final little dot until she’s mounted on her base to see what is needed to complete the miniature…
When Kickstarter was first introduced to me, I felt like it was made for games/ranges such as the ones from Red-Box Games, Tercio Creativo and from our friend Pawel with his game Norsgard! Small companies with great (and unique) concepts without the finical muscles to move them into production. There are not enough true skirmish fantasy games out there for my taste so I hope this game can grow into a larger range (but not a larger game ;-)).
I got to pull out the “euro” card here in support and just tell you how lovely the models for this range is. I have a few at home and will take photos of them and post this weekend.
For now – please check out the kickstarted campaign!
I have been writing tutorials for Ravage this year (the american magazine), and I have one in the latest issue. The tutorial is for the awesome game Twisted, which hopefully will come out soon). The miniatures are fantastic and the setting manages to be unique in a industry filled with Steam Punk. I hope you like it and that you check out the game as well!
I have been really into G-dubb plastics, just the basic plastics without any conversions. I tend not to spend too much time on these, just getting them to a nice high TT standard. Just to get them done so I can have that nice fuzzy feeling (of finishing a model) on the inside
The last two models I’ve gotten to the basing stage is the Orc Painboy and the Eldar Farseer.
Next up is the Dwarf Troll slayer…
The header says it all, a few of the people behind the magazine have decided to start sharing the stuff that we send each other on a daily basis anyway.
Hope you enjoy.